ZW Coat - Birgitta Helmersson - PDF Pattern
ZW Coat - Birgitta Helmersson - PDF Pattern
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Please note: This PDF sewing pattern uses zero waste pattern cutting and comprises of instructions to draw shapes directly onto your fabric. With the exception of some small templates, there are no pattern pieces to print out and tape together.
*This pattern is for personal use and non-profit use only.
PDF sales are final sale & non-refundable.
DESCRIPTION
This is a one size pattern which fits the size range below. *We are working on extending sizes in this pattern, sign up to our mailing list to find out when it becomes available.
Size 1 (EU 36 - 44)
Sewing Level: Advanced Beginner
The ZW coat is an unlined unisex oversized coat with a batwing sleeve, round collar and patch pockets. The short coat has a front button closure and the long coat has a front button closure and waist tie. Also comes with tips on how to cut a lining if you want to add this.
This pattern comes with 2 options, a short and a long coat. The short coat is suitable for beginners and up, the long coat is more suited to mid-intermediate sewers, however if you make the short coat as your first project and progress to the long coat for your next one this would work well as a lot of the steps are the same.
Recommended Tools
Sewing machine, iron, chalk or dissolvable pen, scissors, large right angle ruler and/or long straight ruler.
Techniques used
Button holes, patch pockets, binding seams (optional), attaching a collar, hand sewing (optional)
PDF Pattern/Instruction Booklet: Includes measurements in both metric (centimetres) and US imperial (inches). Booklet/Templates are printable on both A4 or US Letter Paper size. Templates for the ZW Coat are provided in a separate document.
FABRIC + NOTIONS
*This coat is cut against the grain (cross-wise) which means that the width of your fabric determines the length of your coat.
Fabric Type
Ideal in a mid heavy weight wool coating. This can also work in a lighter wool or cotton drill for more of a light jacket or trench coat style, you will need to make sure you fuse part of your collar if you choose a lighter weight fabric.
Size One
Recommended width
145 – 160 cm / 57 – 63 inches
Yardage required
Short coat: 140cm / 55 1/2 inches (approx 1.55 yards)
Long coat: 200cm / 78 inches (approx 2.2 yards)
Notions (Optional)
-Bias tape or binding. Approx 3 metres / 118 inches. This can be used to finish some of the seams on the inside and is a really nice finish when using heavy coating. You can use either a pre cut binding from a roll or cut your own using a lightweight cotton or linen.
-Buttons x 3. Recommended size 2 - 2.5cm / ¾ – 1 inch.
-Iron on fusing, approx 25cm / 10 inch. Only required if you are using a lighter weight fabric and is used to fuse the inside of the collar and front facings.
-Elastic or a length of cord. This is required if you are doing the short coat hack to gather in the back hem. The size of elastic is determined by how much you want to bring in the hem.
-Lining. This coat doesn’t need a lining but the booklet includes tips on how to add one if you want to for some extra warmth. More info in the booklet on this.
THE METHOD
Zero waste pattern cutting is a bit like a puzzle. It is a method of pattern drafting where you utilise a length of fabric end to end by strategically planning your pattern pieces so that everything is used. This pattern is ‘PAPERLESS’ meaning that no printing of large pattern pieces is required. Instead of using full scale paper patterns, you draw your pattern pieces directly onto your fabric with the aid of a cutting plan and small templates. We love working with this method for 3 reasons:
1. More flexibility
This method allows for easy changes such as using different fabric widths and making simple fit and design changes yourself. Using patterns that fit into a zero waste square or rectangular block is a very efficient way to work. It means that it is easier to patchwork together remnants or use left over fabrics you already have lying around.
2. An easy way to learn to self draft your own patterns
Working this way will help you to start building a toolbox of skills, and you will learn an alternative method of self drafting your own sewing patterns, which are super easy for beginners to understand.
3. Less fabric and paper waste!
SIZE CHART
*Based on using a fabric that is 150cm / 59 inches wide. You can make this coat longer or shorter by choosing a fabric with a wider or narrower width. Please note if you need a longer arm length than the below measurement you will need to add more to your fabric usage. Add double the amount you need, ie to add 5cm / 2 inches your sleeve length your fabric usage will be 150cm / 59 ½ inches. This is particularly important for the SHORT COAT as if your sleeve is too short the arm band will sit higher on the arm and feel too tight. More detailed adjustment info is included in the pattern.
SIZE CHART SIZE ONE: Chest/bust 86-104cm / 33-40", waist 66-84cm / 26-33", hip 88-108cm / 34-42"
FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS SIZE ONE
Short Coat
-Length, shoulder to hem: 77cm / 30 1/4 inch
-Chest/waist/hem circumference: 185cm / 72 3/4 inch
-Sleeve/arm length, true shoulder point to sleeve hem: 57cm / 22 1/2 inch
-Sleeve bicep circumference: 42cm / 16 ½ inch
-Sleeve wrist circumference: 27cm / 10 ½ inch
Long Coat
-Length, shoulder to hem: 118cm / 46 inch
-Chest/waist/hem circumference: 162cm / 63 ½ inch
-Sleeve/arm length, true shoulder point to sleeve hem: 57cm / 22 inch
-Sleeve bicep circumference: 52cm / 20 inch
-Sleeve wrist circumference: 37cm / 14 ½ inch
Care Instructions
Care Instructions
It is recommended that all of our fabric (except those that have specific care instructions noted in the product description ie. Wool) be washed in cool/cold water, no chlorine bleach or fabric softeners, phosphate free soap, tumble dry low with like colors or to maximize longevity, line dry.
Thread Colour Matching Service
Thread Colour Matching Service
We offer in house thread colour matching service! CLICK HERE
Simply add the thread of choice to your order
If you have more than 1 textile in your cart, please make note of which textile you want the thread to match and the warehouse will choose the best suitable thread for your fabric.
Shipping + Ordering
Shipping + Ordering
ALL SALES ARE FINAL - NO EXCEPTIONS!
PLEASE NOTE:
SHIPPING TRANSIT TIMES DO NOT INCLUDE ORDER PACKAGING AND PROCESSING - ORDERS TAKE 3-5 BUSINESS DAYS TO BE PROCESSED, BEFORE THEY ARE IN THE HANDS OF THE COURIER.
ALL FABRIC IS SOLD PER HALF METER OR PER HALF YARD INCREMENTS (see listing description for the detailed information) QTY 1 = 1/2 meter or 1/2 yard, QTY 2 = 1 meter or 1 yard ETC.*
When a free shipping promotion is active it will appear under shipping options at check out (subject to change at any time)
ANY TEXTILE STOCK SHORTAGES WILL BE AUTOMATICALLY REFUNDED
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PDF sales are final sale & non-refundable.
Oversized packages: if you order is oversized / large some additional shipping charges may apply - your order wont be shipped until your additional shipping changes have been paid. Thanks!
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